First, I have to explain what pleasure the browsing experience can be. Then I will tell you ways to make surfing your lifestyle and how you can surf life in just about all you do.
We surfed as a household.
We graduated from bodysurfing to riding canvas air mattresses, homemade skimboards, paddleboards and finally to surfboards. 1 thing you probably never heard of is surfing a pillow case filled with air. We did that too. We’d wet the pillow case and the run down the shore to fill it with air, spinning the end into a knot to hold the air in the case for one wave. Like I said, we rode everything.
Surfing was fun and we carried that over into board surfing. When we first started to ride surfboards, we only surfed longboards, which were normally 10 feet and more. We didn’t know about wetsuits, leashes, and because of this we were confined to shores where there were no rocks on the shore unless we wanted to repair the dings caused when the fiber glassed board hit the rocks. If we were lucky, another surfer would run and try to grab our surfboard until it hit the rocks. Today, wherever there’s a wave, it’ll be surfed.
It wasn’t unusual to take off on a wave and have as many as 5 of your fellow surfers on the same wave. There was no pressure not to share. Everyone just seemed to have fun. We spent hours talking about how many waves we captured that day and the new maneuvers we saw and tried. Everyone was always trying to outdo their friends by trying new types of pullouts, walking into the nose, turns, etc..
Another thing that was fun was helping the other surfers improve by telling them exactly what they were doing and complementing them on their own surfing. We discussed wax, towels, and thoughts.
Maybe this free soul was brought to us from Hawaii originally by Duke Kahanamoku. He brought the Aloha Spirit to the beaches of California and the rest of the world. This spirit is what I talk about and want to share with you when I talk about how we should all Surf Life.
If you play golf, odds are you will mishit a shot, miss an important putt, or screw up badly on a hole and end up with a bad score. It will likely make you mad. I have seen golfers get so upset that they throw or break their golf club after a bad shot.
Well, this doesn’t occur in surfing. You never hit a bad shot. You may fall from your board and get wiped out, but it’s fun. You paddle out and catch the next wave.
What makes you happy and successful in life, marriage, and your job? Having fun? I think that whatever you’re doing you ought to enjoy, just like you enjoy surfing. As I said, it’s a spirit that you should and will learn to carry over to your relationships and your work.
Surfing is something which can sure help you do so. Surfing gives you a sense of freedom. It gets you close to nature out in the fresh air and in the water. It is a great method of relieving tension and stress, while you get a good physical workout. Surfing enhances the quality of one’s life.
Surfing is really an enjoyable sport. There are all kinds of amateur competitions or you may treat it like a sport each day you surf even though you are not in a competition against others. Even though it’s normally an individual action, it’s very seldom that you are alone. You’re normally with your surfing buddies and friends either riding the waves or hanging out on the shore. It is a happy time.
Surfing contributes to beach parties, barbeques, and other social events. You build a new set of friends who enjoy doing the same thing as you do. It is a mellow lifestyle that you carry over to everything you do. Although it can be aggressive, it is still mellow. You are in the water feeling the spray in your face, breathing the fresh air, and in a wonderful state of mind.
Purchase a ukulele and learn to play it. Get yourself a Woodie automobile or a fantastic surf vehicle. You might not need to wear a tie to work? Feel the aloha spirit. All of these things go with browsing.
Take these feelings with you to the world around you and into your personal and business life and then you’ll know what it means to Surf Life. You will learn how to relax when you get into a challenging situation. You’ll stop stressing out when somebody cuts you off on the freeway.